Pacemaker Fishing Forum

What type of rod and reel combo should I get for each of the following.

-spinnerbait
-buzzbait
-chatterbait
-jig
-grub on a weighted hook
-finesse worms
-rat l trap
-other lures

When you consider rods, you absolutely MUST look at different actions for different purposes. For example, when fishing a Texas rigged worm in 20 feet of water, you would not pick a Shakespeare Ugly Stick. The very thing that makes it a great rod will defeat you at every turn when plastic worm fishing. You need a rod with a strong backbone that will allow you to set the hook, pulling the hook point through the plastic and into the jaw of the bass. This generally takes a medium-heavy action rod, preferably 6.5-7 feet. The length will give you the leverage to move that hook through a wide arc. I have frequently pulled fish completely out of the water from 15 feet of water, on the hookset. It does take a little experience, a sweep set and a good stiff rod.

By contast, I use an ultra-light action, 4.5 foot rod for my spinnerbait rod. While I do not recommend this for every angler, I do recommend a Medium-light or Medium action rod. When retrieving a spinnerbait, the fish will frequently come up behind the bait, following it, but not sucking it into it's mouth. When this is felt, the angler generally sets the hook and brings back empty water. When using a softer tip rod, the angler does not feel the fish until the hook is already imbedded in it's jaw and the fight is on. The softer tip also allows give when the fish surges and keeps the hook from pulling out when it is only imbedded in the lip rather than the jaw.

For crankbaits and topwaters (except grass frogs), I generally go with a Medium or Medium-light rod. Once again, I want that hook to be imbedded before I go setting the hook and I want the give that a light tip provides. I always use monofilament line for crankbaits, spinnerbaits and topwaters. The stretch in the line provides a little more insurance again hooks pulling out when a big fish surges.

Any bait fished on the bottom, i.e., worms, grubs, jigs, etc. should be fished on a medium-heavy rod with braided line. The medium-heavy action gives you the backbone to bury the hook while allowing a little bend in the tip for castability. The braided line, with it's lack of stretch provides the ultimate feel of the bait. With braid, you can feel a fish suck in a Senko as it falls through the water column. I could not believe it until I saw a fish take my bait in clear water. At the time, the line had a large bow in it from the wind and I still felt it perfectly.

Frogging required a completely new set of parameters. I find that a Medium-Heavy spinning rod of at least 7 feet, paired up with 50+ pound braided line, creates the ideal frogging rod for the tidal Potomac River, as well as any other body of water with extensive grass beds. The length and braided line give you the power to toss that frog as far as you want to cast, while the lack of stretch, allow you to set the hook with authority at any distance you can cast. Both the length of the rod and the power of the braided line allow you, keeping the rod tip up, to "ski" the fish across the top of the grass to the boat, not allowing the fish to bury in the grass. The fact that braided line does not sink and the small diameter coming through the grass more easily are also advantages.

While I did not touch on reels on most lures, I really don't think it matters that much. I generally use baitcasters on most baits, as they are inherently more accurate. However, when I am fishing small, light baits, such as grubs, senkos and finesse worms, I generally use spinning gear. Since I am fishing braid with these methods, this also allows me to skip baits under docks more effectively. Whatever is most comfortable for you is the type of gear you should use. Remember, fishing should be fun, relaxing and productive. If you are stressed, tired, muscle weary, etc. from trying to master a different type of reel, you are not going to have much fun and I guarantee it will not be productive.

Charlie NHBA.......

I have seen Charlie Taylor work his magic with that 4.5' rod....incredible.

With the information posted above, we just went to bass tackle school.....I hope everyone paid attention.

Ernie

Charlie:

Another tip would be to use a DUOLOCK SNAP (not a snap swivel) on the end of the line for crankbaits, spinnerbaits, topwaters, etc.  Just about everything but plastics and bottom fished baits do fine with these snaps. They are made of stainless steel and will hold up for about any type of fish. They make changing baits a lot easier and quicker. They also allow more freedom of movement for the lure. Crankbaits, particularly, work better with a snap or a loop knot. Since the snap is easier and doesn't involve tying another knot, I use the snaps.

Charlie NHBA......

i hrd they mess up the chances of a fish being caught